Fashion month has come and gone. Kanye’s disaster at Roosevelt Island feels like a decade ago, and Gigi Hadid and Kendal Jenner must have strutted down at least half a million runways since that day (give or take). Much like AW16, this season was shrouded in familiarity. Ruffles and cold shoulders are unwavering stalwarts, whilst the 70s and 80s continue to wrestle for the spotlight (the 70s aren’t yet out for the count but the 80s are certainly winning the fight this season).
There have been a lot of shows that I’ve somewhat glossed over, with not much new to be found, but a handful of trends did come to the fore that captured my attention. Let’s explore.
Off the Hook
This is a trend I can very much get on board with. My favourite lazy days are spent crocheting under a blanket with a cup of green tea and if I can use that time to whip something up that resembles MSGM or Missoni then all the better. MSGM adorned their models with halterneck frills that were neither a top nor a scarf and I’m intrigued by the ambiguity. Novis’ approach was more straight forward with granny square style patterns and hand crochet techniques. Red Valentino used crochet for festival-inspired bikini tops and beach vistas and I was completely taken with M Missoni’s chunky, bobbly crochet trimmed satchel bags.
Samantha Cameron will be singing from the rooftops; waist belts are back. From slinky barely there belts, to corset-proportioned cinchers, nipped in waists ruled the roost. Prada disrupted the structure of their panelled jackets, crossing the fronts over and securing them with kitsch belts that sat somewhere between 60s wallpaper and 70s motocross. Maison Margiela took us into the future, embellishing his space-age creatures with looped metallic belts and at Bally, Pablo Coppola offset his rich colour palette with slimline leather and sturdy metal clasps. Isabel Marant, meanwhile, deployed belts to add shape to slouchy utilitarian silhouettes.
If someone stole all of my clothes and brought them back as gingham duplicates, I’d probably be OK with it. Ever since I commandeered my Mum’s old pink gingham nightdress when I was about 7, the print has prevailed as a firm favourite. Au Jour Le Jour harked back to the print’s prim, prairie roots with frills and aprons but retained an air of cool with sleek sequins and sportswear touches. House of Holland and Peter Pilotto layered gingham upon gingham; clashing colours and creating some of my favourite looks of the season in the process. Rahul Mishra also created abundant layers but instead interspersed his checks with bouyant frills and woodland scenes.
All Tied Up
This trend speaks to the DIY-er in me. Give me a couple of long sleeved t-shirts or a handful of silk scarves and I feel like I could recreate this look in a jiffy. Isa Arfen, Milly and Trussardi all riffed on the same theme, with multiple knot ties to the front of tops and dresses, offering a flash of skin and a sense of feminine structure without resorting to ubiquitous frills and ruffles. Roksanda, on the other hand, swaddled her models in sumptuous fashion; her luxurious fabrics wrapped and tied at the waist.
Something Up Your Sleeve
This trend may be bigger than the actual sleeves that designers sent down their respective runways. From Topshop Unique and Simone Rocha to Zac Posen and Salvatore Ferragamo, sleeves went supersized this season. Dsquared2 and Dolce & Gabbana took similar approaches, their puff sleeves clashing with decadent textures and ornate adornments. Jacquemus and Stella McCartney were subdued in their maximalism; tempering voluminous shoulders with clean lines and understated colour palettes. Saint Laurent, on the other hand, went in the other direction entirely; an embodiment of 80s excess.